The phrase "a checker that doesn't kill a CC" inspired me to write this text. To reduce this nonsense, I decided to explain the topic and convey the message: "any checker can ruin a CC."
Points to be covered:
1. How are CCs blocked?
2. How are CCs checked?
3. What can I use to check a CC?
4. Where can I get a CC checker?
1. I block cards automatically, either through antifraud or when the cardholder calls the bank. Automatic blocking is rare; usually, the transaction is simply not processed. Here are a few examples from my experience with automatic blocking:
- multiple transactions in a row (although maybe the payment processors were that fast)
- too large a sum in NovBV merch (I tormented one bank for a year, day after day)
From online sources:
- transactions through merch that's blacklisted by the anti-fraud system – a broken checker
- blacklisted IP address, IP address from the wrong country, and other parameters that probably relate more to the store's anti-fraud system than to the bank's; I consider this unlikely.
2. They check the card for validity; essentially, they simply process the transaction; if successful, it's valid. But any transaction can be noticed by the cardholder, who will block the card. And since there are SMS notifications now, anyone who checked a card and left it for later is an idiot. It's been written a hundred times, and I'll say it for the hundredth time: "I took the card, entered it, and if it doesn't work, only then do I check it for validity."
3. You can check a card's validity:
A) CC Checker – a common service available in CC stores. Simply copy the card details into a special field on the website and click "check cc." The response tells you which CC is valid and which isn't. The pros are fully automated, allowing you to check many cards at once. The cons are that many cards marked as fraud are processed through this merch, which quickly ends up on various blacklists, and therefore may not check for validity in some bins, or worse, even have their CC invalidated. I rarely use them, so to speak: "only with a proven system."
Example: ug-market.com
B) Donation – a regular website with donation options, where you enter a minimum amount and process the payment. If it's a donation, I managed to get a valid Kvarta. They say online that their anti-fraud system is weak, but from my own observations, if you constantly check out the same thing, it starts acting up, just like all other merch. The advantage is that you set the amount yourself, and if a transaction goes through here but not in your shop, 90% of the time it's the card balance. The disadvantage is that if the donation amount is higher than the amount on the card, you'll throw the card away, thinking it's invalid, when you should have just waited until payday =)
Example: gofundme.com
C) "Authorizer" (I'll call them that) – services where you can link cards to your account but not make a purchase. An example of this is PayPal; you can't link a dead card there, but you don't have to pay for goods either. This is called card authorization. It debits the amount, but it's then returned after a few hours or days. The disadvantage is that you can't set your own amount. Each service has its own amount, at most. I've seen $5. Their advantage is that the amount is returned; the rosy theory is less obvious. And now a huge advantage: there are services where the authorization amount is $0. From my observations, such zero-authorization doesn't appear on the card statement, and the SMS KH doesn't arrive when the card is checked. It was discovered that zero-authorization works fine with cards that can't be used for online payments, but in this case, statistics can only be tracked by bins.
Example: ufc.tv
4. We get checkers from CC shops and specialized services; this is usually a paid service. Don't fall for free ones; the checkers are created by the same shady characters as you. What's stopping them from intercepting your CC? And if it's separate software, you're guaranteed a backdoor. Donations – Google will help with "donate" queries. You can't immediately tell which is good and which isn't by trial and error; you need to try. You can even enter some small amount into the shop. Authorizers – you need to search for them. All kinds of paid subscriptions, with queries like "subscription trial period," "subscription free test," etc.
Points to be covered:
1. How are CCs blocked?
2. How are CCs checked?
3. What can I use to check a CC?
4. Where can I get a CC checker?
1. I block cards automatically, either through antifraud or when the cardholder calls the bank. Automatic blocking is rare; usually, the transaction is simply not processed. Here are a few examples from my experience with automatic blocking:
- multiple transactions in a row (although maybe the payment processors were that fast)
- too large a sum in NovBV merch (I tormented one bank for a year, day after day)
From online sources:
- transactions through merch that's blacklisted by the anti-fraud system – a broken checker
- blacklisted IP address, IP address from the wrong country, and other parameters that probably relate more to the store's anti-fraud system than to the bank's; I consider this unlikely.
2. They check the card for validity; essentially, they simply process the transaction; if successful, it's valid. But any transaction can be noticed by the cardholder, who will block the card. And since there are SMS notifications now, anyone who checked a card and left it for later is an idiot. It's been written a hundred times, and I'll say it for the hundredth time: "I took the card, entered it, and if it doesn't work, only then do I check it for validity."
3. You can check a card's validity:
A) CC Checker – a common service available in CC stores. Simply copy the card details into a special field on the website and click "check cc." The response tells you which CC is valid and which isn't. The pros are fully automated, allowing you to check many cards at once. The cons are that many cards marked as fraud are processed through this merch, which quickly ends up on various blacklists, and therefore may not check for validity in some bins, or worse, even have their CC invalidated. I rarely use them, so to speak: "only with a proven system."
Example: ug-market.com
B) Donation – a regular website with donation options, where you enter a minimum amount and process the payment. If it's a donation, I managed to get a valid Kvarta. They say online that their anti-fraud system is weak, but from my own observations, if you constantly check out the same thing, it starts acting up, just like all other merch. The advantage is that you set the amount yourself, and if a transaction goes through here but not in your shop, 90% of the time it's the card balance. The disadvantage is that if the donation amount is higher than the amount on the card, you'll throw the card away, thinking it's invalid, when you should have just waited until payday =)
Example: gofundme.com
C) "Authorizer" (I'll call them that) – services where you can link cards to your account but not make a purchase. An example of this is PayPal; you can't link a dead card there, but you don't have to pay for goods either. This is called card authorization. It debits the amount, but it's then returned after a few hours or days. The disadvantage is that you can't set your own amount. Each service has its own amount, at most. I've seen $5. Their advantage is that the amount is returned; the rosy theory is less obvious. And now a huge advantage: there are services where the authorization amount is $0. From my observations, such zero-authorization doesn't appear on the card statement, and the SMS KH doesn't arrive when the card is checked. It was discovered that zero-authorization works fine with cards that can't be used for online payments, but in this case, statistics can only be tracked by bins.
Example: ufc.tv
4. We get checkers from CC shops and specialized services; this is usually a paid service. Don't fall for free ones; the checkers are created by the same shady characters as you. What's stopping them from intercepting your CC? And if it's separate software, you're guaranteed a backdoor. Donations – Google will help with "donate" queries. You can't immediately tell which is good and which isn't by trial and error; you need to try. You can even enter some small amount into the shop. Authorizers – you need to search for them. All kinds of paid subscriptions, with queries like "subscription trial period," "subscription free test," etc.
